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During the past twelve years,
I’ve searched out and photographed more than 200 of the
rapidly-disappearing, independent little hamburger, hot dog,
teriyaki and taco fast food eateries scattered throughout
the greater Los Angeles area.
This comprehensive body of work documents the fascinating
variety of sizes, signage, décor, construction and design to
be found among them. Although my photographs are documentary
in nature, my objective has been to have them be artistic as
well, embracing elements of formal organization and style. I
have aimed at realism, but not at the cost of sacrificing
aesthetic factors.
Whether called joints, stands or shacks, these small,
freestanding eateries with little, if any, on-site seating
struggle to survive in the face of rising real estate
prices, increasingly more stringent building and health code
regulations and changing demographics.
Husbands and wives, brothers and sisters, mothers and
daughters work in these little claustrophobic structures,
hot in the summer and cold in the winter. On their feet
twelve to fourteen hours a day, six and sometimes seven days
a week, new comers from diverse cultural and ethic groups
take their entrepreneurial first steps at attaining the
American dream of having a business of one’s own.
Some of these joints have noteworthy connections: Irv’s
Burgers was pictured on the inner foldout of Linda
Ronstadt’s "Living in the USA" album; "Sunset Grill"
(demolished and replaced with a rather nondescript
successor) was the subject of the Don Henley song of the
same name; "Tail of the Pup" served hot dogs to Steve Martin
in "L. A. Story," and "Molly’s Burger & Hot Dog" was used as
a backdrop for several movies, including "Busting," "The
Golden Child" and "Jimmy Hollywood."
Others have undergone one or more changes of name and/or
extensive renovation either by virtue of having come under
new ownership or in a last-ditch effort at self
preservation. To accommodate a neighborhood’s change in
demographics, menus which featured hamburgers and hot dogs
have given way to those featuring tacos and burritos, while
former purveyors of such Mexican fare now feature teriyaki
and other Asian specialities.
Thus, "Red’s of Hollywood" (while retaining the distinctive
giant hot dog perched on its roof) is now "Thai Town
Express" and "Orange Bee Jay" has been converted to "Machos
Tacos." "Rocky’s Famous Hot Dogs," the hamburger-featuring
"Grill on Hill," and the hamburger and taco-serving "Phil’s
Place have all converted to Asian fare under the names
"Sweet Home Grill," "KUKU Teriyaki" and "Prince Restaurant,"
respectively.
From time to time, I have
returned to previously-photographed sites to photograph a
new owner’s change of design, signage and/or menu. Placed
side by side, these diptychs (and, in some cases, triptychs)
highlight the changing character of the neighborhood, giving
a sense of history to these little fast-food joints.
A great many of these
eateries have gone out of business, their structures
abandoned or demolished, some just months after I had
photographed them (e.g., “Grandma’s Kitchen,” “Los 3
Potrillos,” “Chinese Kitchen,” “Kosher Burrito,” “Andy’s
Kitchen,” “Jay’s Jayburgers,” “Mo Better Meaty Meat Burgers”
and “Jack’s Classic Hamburgers”).
The eateries documented
in “Eating On The Run” are an integral, unique and
fast-disappearing part of Los Angeles' culture and history.
Whether their customers are content to take their order of
fast food of predictable quality away with them, or to avail
themselves of what minimalist, well worn, seating may be
provided, these colorful local neighborhood purveyors of
fast food cater to hungry Angelinos eating on the run. |