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Over the past twelve years,
I’ve searched out and photographed over 250 of those modest
little hamburger, hot dog, teriyaki and taco fast food
eateries scattered throughout greater Los Angeles.
Called "joints," "stands" or
"shacks," these small, independent, freestanding eateries,
with little, if any, on-site seating, struggle to survive
in the face of increasing land values, stringent building,
zoning and health codes and changing tastes.
This comprehensive body of work documents the fanciful and
distinctive variety of signage, décor, construction and
design to be found among these establishments. Each in its
own way is quaint, funky, artistic and sometimes charming.
Almost invariably one or more outside telephones are to be
found within a few steps of either the service window or the
sparse seating accommodations.
Some have noteworthy connections: "Irv’s Burgers" was
pictured on the inner foldout of Linda Ronstadt’s "Living in
the USA" album; "Sunset Grill" (demolished and replaced with
a rather nondescript successor) was the subject of the Don
Henley song of the same name and "Molly’s Burger & Hot Dog"
was used as a backdrop for several movies, including
"Busting" and "The Golden Child."
Los Angeles is a city in a constant state of flux; there can
be considerable change in the short span of ten years.
During that brief time, quite a few of these remnants of a
vanishing part of Los Angeles history have closed, their
structures abandoned or demolished, many just months after I
had photographed them. (e.g., "Grandma’s Kitchen,"
"Los 3 Potrillos," "Chinese Kitchen," "Jay’s Jayburgers," "Mo
Better Meaty Meatburgers," "Kosher Burrito," "Andy’s
Kitchen"). Their existence is preserved in the photographs I
have taken.
Others have undergone one or more changes of name and/or
extensive renovation by virtue of having come under new
ownership, in a last-ditch effort at self preservation or to
accommodate the neighborhood’s change in demographics. Menus
which featured hamburgers and hot dogs seem to have given
way to those featuring tacos and burritos, while former
purveyors of such Mexican fare now feature teriyaki and
other Asian specialities. Thus, "Red’s of Hollywood" (while
retaining the distinctive giant hot dog perched on its roof)
is now "Thai Town Express;" "Orange Bee Jay" has been
converted to "Machos Tacos;" "Rocky’s Famous Hot Dogs" now
specializes in Asian food under the name "Sweet Home Grill;"
"Grizzly Burgers" became "El Pollo Picasso" before becoming
"LA Ribs, Inc.;" and the hamburger-serving "Grill on Hill"
now operates as "KUKU Teriyaki."
While the clock inexorably runs out, these
colorful local neighborhood purveyors of fast food continue
to fill the orders of hungry Angelinos eating on the run.
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